Mastichari.

On the north coast of Kos, where the island turns to face Kalymnos, there is a village that has stayed a village. Boats still leave from the harbour early. The beach runs long and shallow and the wind comes across it most afternoons — the same wind the hotel is named for.

Mastichari is not a place that performs. There are tavernas where the fish arrives from thirty metres away, a handful of shops, a church, and a shoreline that turns copper an hour before the sun goes.

Áneme sits two minutes back from the water, close enough to walk down barefoot and far enough to hear nothing you didn't come for.